Sunday, September 15, 2013

Second Day of Teaching (And Yom Kippur) In Israel



          This Wednesday, September 11th, was an incredibly long day for me.  It was, first of all, my second day of hands-on observation at the Rambam school.  I took the 7:30 am bus from my apartment, planning to arrive at Rambam at 8:00 am.  TZ rode the bus with me, as did Perrin and Natalie, and Noah and Devin.  TZ and I had no trouble finding the entrance this time.  I had brought my tallit, tefillin, and Ashkenazic siddur with me so that I could pray tefillat hashachar with the boys in the morning.  I thought that this might be a good way to further endear myself to them, so that they would more fully trust me (not all of them believed that I was Jewish, I should add).  One student, who shares my name, and is already quite attached to me, was anxious that I sit with him.  The students use a Sepharadic liturgy sung to Sepharadic tunes, and are overseen by a Rabbi.  For those of you interested, the students' liturgy, ignoring the changes caused by the fact that it is the time between Rosh Hashannah and Yom Kippur (known as the Days of Awe) consists of: birchot hashachar, pesukei dezimra, the Shema and associated blessings, the Shemoneh Esrei with a heichi kedushah, Tachanun, Ashrei and Uva le'Tzion, and aleinu.  This is somewhat minimal (pesukei d'zimra consisted of just baruch she'amar, Ashrei, Kol Haneshama, and Yishtabach), much more suited to students' attention spans than the somewhat longer, more hurried version that I am used to.  The Rabbi, after Tachanun, gave a very brief lesson on Yom Kippur.  I couldn't, unfortunately, accurately follow all that he said.

          Afterwards, I joined Moshe, TZ, and the 8th-grade girls in their English class.  I was trying to work with a pair that later became a group of three to understand the lesson of Monday, a story by Isaac Asimov called "Sarah Tops."  One of the girls was moderately receptive to me, but the other one actively tried to make learning more difficult for her partner.  She refused to speak in anything but Hebrew, asked me a series of unrelated questions in order to distract me from the lesson at hand, turned her back on me and refused to listen, covered her head so that she couldn't hear, and, whenever her partner showed interest, jabbed her.  I believe that she might have some form of ADD or ADHD.  I did not lose my temper with her, even when she said some rather cruel things to me, knowing that when the teacher loses his temper, everyone loses.  That was my only teaching for the day, and I felt rather bad about my inability to teach anything substantive.

          At 10:30 am, the school population (consisting of maybe around 80 students, by my estimate) walked to a nearby synagogue, where the same Rabbi who had overseen tefillah led the students in some simple s'lichot (prayers of forgiveness), and taught them how to perform kapara with coins.  On the way back to the school, TZ told me that her father received a doctorate in Biblical literature, having written at thesis on Kohellet.  This excited me to no end; I told her how much one of my best friends, who is also my first learning partner, really loves Kohellet, (yes, that's you, Peninah♥♥♥♥♥), and got me into it.  For those of you who don't know about my personal relationship with Kohellet, I think that it's one of the finest books of philosophy from the ancient world, which asks some of the profoundest questions about the human condition, and brings together some of the most beautiful language (even when translated into English) found in the Bible.  TZ explained to me that she's pretty much been living with Kohellet as a brother for the past couple of years, which really cracks me up.

          Anyway, we had taught our last English classes for the day, and TZ and I spent the rest of the morning, and until around 12:30 pm, touring the English facilities, and thinking about lesson plans.  We not only need to teach language, but also need to convey literature and culture, which might make things difficult.  The textbooks are so-so, and don't seem to teach very consistently, or in very good ways.  I think that even my High School French textbooks were better than these.  I think that TZ and I, although we might use the textbooks as a guide for what grammatical structures and forms we will be teaching to each grade level, might end up diverging sharply from the content and vocabulary.  We're trying to really motivate these students to learn, and that isn't easy, as I know from personal experience.

          We met other ITF participants on the bus, and rode with them to their house on Rechov Havaradim.  I was still in my long dress pants at this point, which I will be wearing every day to school (none of the other teachers wear shorts, although my short-sleeve button-down shirts, sneakers, and small grey kippah are very much within the bounds of the dress code).  We had only around an hour before our 3:00 pm meeting at the English center, so I took time to teach a few of the others a little bit more Hebrew.  I am really trying, as are they, but I'm not an experienced teacher, and we don't have much time to practice.  We had some programs at the English Center and at the Kashtot Center downstairs on the campus, ending with Carmel showing us the Israeli film Ushpizin, with English subtitles.  For those of you who haven't seen it yet, I highly recommend it, as a story that tells a lot about Israeli society, simultaneously about its internecine conflicts and its unities.  It noticeably doesn't mention anything about the other populations in Israel (there are no Arab characters, nor are there even any references to any land-conflict, an omission easily noted by a foreigner such as myself who hears a great deal about this subject).  Speaking of the Arab-Zionist conflict, did anyone notice who Assad just put the onus of getting rid of chemical weapons in the Middle East on Israel?  The conflict, which blew up into an international human rights issue when he (probably) used chemical weapons against his own people, has become soluble only if Israel signs a nonproliferation treaty.  I don't know if this was his plan from the beginning, but now Assad (who now admits that he has had chemical weapons this whole time), is trying to strongarm Israel into giving up its WMDs, using his own civilian population as his hostages.  Even if one believes that Israel should sign such a treaty, I find it hard to deny that the Israelis have next to nothing to do with the chemical weapon attack, and that Assad's recent statement (ultimatum?) diverts international attention from the actions of the Syrian government onto those of its neighbor and enemy.  Perhaps Assad hopes that international anger at the State of Israel (never in short supply in the UN) can be used as either a shield, to ward off world scrutiny into its actions by reminding it of all of the issues in its southern neighbor, or as a sword, to earn a "freebie" Israeli disarmament as part of its own Russia-negotiated disarmament, striking a blow against its hated enemy.

          But I digress.  Afterwards, I took a run in Gan Golda.  At around forty minutes into my run, I felt another runner approaching me from behind.  I decided to pace him, or her, and for the next few minutes, ran alongside him, shadowing him just slightly on the outside of the track from him.  He was a much faster runner than I was (based on the rough shape of the shadow-runner, I guessed that he was male, but I didn't look directly at his face).  He was doing some kind of sprinting exercise, in which he would speed up, and I could barely even stay even with him, even though I think that he was waiting up for me.  Finally, I look directly at him – and he's a handsome 5'11" Ethiopian guy in his late 20s.  Wow: what a guy!  There we were, ontologically just runners, sharing everything in common because of our athletic striving. 

          Back at my apartment, I learn that the Internet is still down, as it had been since I returned home on Tuesday (FYI, it's still down).  Carmel was doing his best to fix it, but the customer service people with whom he was communicating were being very rude to him, and supremely unhelpful.  By the way, I don't know to what extent this has come out in my blog, but Carmel is absolutely superhuman in the energy that he devotes towards making all of the Oranim Ramla-Lod participants happy and comfortable, and does the work of two to three people.  After showering, downing some milk, and putting on a nice button-down shirt, I ran off to my friends' house on Rechov Havaradim to have my 2:00 pm EST interview with a public school for which I'd love to work in the 2014-2015 school year (really, it's my dream job for next year).  Just so that I won't keep anyone in suspense, I learned on Thursday night that I had not received the job.  This is nothing new to me: I've been turned down more times than I can count, literally.  However, the stress of the interview probably contributed to me getting into the closest I've gotten to a fight with my housemates.  I attacked an argument that Noah had made, and completely began an altercation that I shouldn't have.  The worst thing is, that I did it at the very time of year, the days between Rosh Hashannah and Yom Kippur, during which, ideally, I should be on my best behavior. 

          Thursday, we had another of these trips to get ITF teacher training.  Our entire group was wholly unimpressed.  Although we all agreed that having teacher training was important, we got very little concrete information, and mostly just inspirational messages.  It really felt like a waste of a perfectly good 7-hour period.  Afterwards, in the heat of the day, I took a trip to the shuk, and picked up groceries for the upcoming few days.  Fresh dates were going for ₪8 per box, a box holding around a kilo and a half.  And these were literally fresh off of the frond; good stuff, that.  I need to find myself a place to get some good zchug, though; I had some at the Kashtot center the other night, and had forgotten how good it tastes with hummus.  I took a run in the park, and again met new friends.  This time, it was a group of three Israeli kids who couldn't have been older than 15, who told me that I was like Superman for running around the track so many times.  Their English was unexpectedly good, far better than my Hebrew, and they even knew the word for "pushup" in English (they asked me to do 20, which I did).  I unfortunately needed to leave, on account of having promised Noah (ITF Noah, not my housemate Noah) that I would help him with Hebrew sometime that day.  I ended the evening by giving another Hebrew lesson to TZ on Havaradim, reviewing yesh/ein statements and the verb lalechet with her, and teaching her pronouns.  Maybe, we can get to possessives next, using shel phrases.

          I was back on Friday morning, seeing the group out on their way to Jerusalem.  The entire ITF Ramla group had decided to spend Yom Kippur in the Israeli capital, but I had already promised to break my fast with my host family, which I wouldn't have been able to do, had I been in Jerusalem.  Hannah gave me her housekey, so that I could enter the house, and use the Internet, while they were away.  This was incredibly kind and trusting of them all, to trust me in this way, and very sweet of Hannah in particular.  I got to make Goldilocks and the Eight Bears jokes about the whole incident after the fact, too.  The rest of Friday passed rather slowly, Noah, too, leaving for Jerusalem.  On his way out, I apologized for my complete rudeness to him the night before, and he forgave me.  I genuinely felt terrible about the whole incident, and hope that I won't be the cause of future conflicts in the Yoseftal apartment.  I had read about a hundred pages worth of Benny Morris, too, since the day before, which I hope will pay off.  I've made it to Israel's war in Lebanon in the mid-80s.  I deliberately use the term "in Lebanon" rather than "with Lebanon," because the main target of the operations was the PLO, and the main adversary quickly became Syria, which had troops stationed in Lebanon.  Also, I had no idea about all of the Christian Phalange massacres of Muslims that went on in the camps outside of Beirut at this time; I really hope that this reading is shoring up my ignorance of such important issues.  On Friday evening, I left for the Sepharadi synagogue on Rechov Tzahal, but needed to return to my apartment after walking the entire way, because I had forgotten to wear my tallit to arvit.  I returned, tallit and back, and saw that my detour had probably cost me my place; there were no machzorim left.  I had no desire to be left without a synagogue for Erev Yom Kippur the way I had been on Erev Rosh Hashannah I, so I walked to the Sepharadi synagogue at the far end of Rechov Bar-Ilan.  I arrived towards the end of Kol Nidrei, and although the synagogue was packed, I managed to take one of the few remaining machzorim.  As I was walking in, the honors for Kol Nidrei were being auctioned off, and one honor went of the high price of ₪3000 (that's nearly $820, by the way, for those of you keeping track).  I ended up staying for around two hours, because after arvit, we recited a long litany of s'lichot.  I really love these Sepharadi tunes, and got several of the refrains stuck in my head, especially "עלינו רחם לפנך חטאנו."  The fast was quite easy for me, and I went to bed fairly soon after returning from synagogue.  Outside, by the way, the children had taken over the streets with their bicycles, and it looked like an elementary school bike rodeo all across Ramla.  On Yom Kippur, the entire country comes to a halt; traffic disappears, and Israel becomes a no-fly zone.  The only vehicles at all are ambulances with muted sirens, and I regret to say, for the victims' sake, that I saw several of these throughout Yom Kippur.  My housemates were disappointed when all but one of the television stations switched off in honor of the holiday.  I don't live anywhere near any of the Arab neighborhoods, and can't say what was happening there.

          On Saturday morning, I got up late.  Very late.  It was nearly 8:30 am when I finally dragged myself up and out of bed.  I donned my tallit, and hurried to the synagogue, arriving there just after kedushah.  Of shacharit, not of musaf, in case anyone was wondering.  I had caught up by the post-shacharit s'lichot.  There were s'lichot galore. Surprisingly, there were fewer people in the synagogue during shacharit and musaf than there had been during arvit the night before.  During the middle of the musaf repetition, there was a long descriptive passage about the process of the goat sacrifice from the traditional Yom Kippur ceremony in the times when the Temple in Jerusalem still stood.  I can't be certain of the source, but the language seemed very reminiscent of the Mishnah.  I stayed until aleinu, which occurred at just after 1:30 pm.  I was thoroughly exhausted, and went back to my apartment to rest.  No sleep for me, though; my roommate Ben needed help with his Ulpan homework, and so I helped him.  I learned a couple of words in the process.  I also had time for myself, reading Sefer Yonah and Shir Hashirim in honor of the holiday.  These two might be my favorite book of Nevi'im and second-favorite of Ketuvim, respectively. When I returned at what I thought was the beginning minchah, they were just beginning the repetition.  Oh, well.  Again, I caught up during the post-minchah s'lichot, which were very similar to the s'lichot that I had been saying all day.  After ne'ilah, at around 7:30 pm, the shofar was blown, and a large contingent of the men left the synagogue.  I stayed on for arvit and havallah, and drank a couple of cups of water before leaving for my Moroccan Savta's house for break-fast.  I had thought of a plan ahead of time to avoid taking any meat dishes: I would say that I wanted to drink milk later, which I knew they would understand, and, also, which was true.  When I entered, I met a few new family members (cousins).  We sat down, and Savta began to pass out bowls of thick vegetable soup.  When mine arrived – it had a whole leg of chicken in it.  Yes, you read that correctly.  A whole chicken leg, sitting in my veggie soup, because I was the guest of honor, and deserved to have the best cuts of meat (only one other person, Micha'el, who is Savta's nephew, received a whole piece of meat in his bowl of soup, and it was not nearly as juicy-looking as mine).  I dutifully cleaned my plate, including the bones.  But, boy, it sure is difficult to be tzimchoni in this country!

          Lots of fun stuff planned for this coming week, including a group tour to the Golan Heights, which, on Birthright, I found to be one of the most beautiful places in the world I had ever personally visited.  It ranks with Acadia, up in Maine.  On my mind now is making certain that I will have a sukkah in which to eat, and can find a way to purchase my arbat minim, preferably for a price under ₪50. 

          Thanks again, Hannah, and everyone else living in the house on Rechov Havaradim, for allowing me to use your Internet, and making the posting of this blog entry possible!

~JD

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