I have spent the last day looking at
(mostly medieval) art with my new favorite museumgoing partner. I'm in
Teaneck, staying with the Feldmans, and Peninah and I took the bus across the
Hudson to visit the Cloisters, New York's European monastery, imported
piecemeal by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. We had been up since before seven
that morning, and arrived at the Cloisters at 10:00 am. I haven't been to
the Cloisters since I accompanied the rest of Mrs. P-B's Medieval History
class, when I was a senior in High School, nearly four years ago (and the only
time before that was also with Mrs. P-B, come to think of it, when I was a High
School sophomore). Very little has changed, but more significantly,
Peninah is such a great traveling buddy, and knows New York City's
public transportation system far better than I do.
We saw some amazing pieces in the
Cloisters. Although there were many pieces that I remember having seen
before, such as Robert Campin's Merode triptych, the hunting-themed
playing cards, Rogier van der Weyden's Nativity, the series of Unicorn tapestries, and the arcades
and courtyards of the Cloister buildings themselves, all of these felt
refreshingly new and interesting. To some extent, I owe this to my
energetic traveling companion, who pointed out to me at least one detail I had
never before noticed about every piece that we discussed. To some extent,
I'd like to think, this was due to my deeper appreciation of art history,
specifically knowledge of technique and style, and their relationship to
geography and chronology, thanks to my exposure to Western art in European art
museums and in Professor Lazzaro's class. Regardless, it was good to
revisit these pieces, as well as to notice pieces that I had never noticed or
admired before. For instance, I had never noticed the 12th-century pane
of stained glass from Canterbury Cathedral, depicting the martyrdom (by fire)
of Saint Lawrence. Although the Cloisters have some pretty amazing
pieces, I had never realized that they had stained glass surviving from the
largest cathedral in England! Likewise, I don't think that I had ever
noticed the fully-illuminated copy of Saint Augustine's City of God (I
hadn't read the Confessions the last time I visited, and may not have
recognized the book's historical significance). Likewise, I had never
noticed the Cloister's pilgrimage badges before, again, because I don't
think that I knew what pilgrimage badges were (in my mind, devised by the same
kind of mind that came up with tiny Eiffel Tower keychains). I know for
certain that I never would have spent as much time scrutinizing the long
genealogical tree of Jesus, dating from 13th-century England, had Peninah and I
not tried to figure out all of the links in the chain. Unfortunately, our
games of name-that-apostle showed that neither of us really can interpret most
the distinguishing symbols added by the artist, beyond maybe the keys always
held by Saint Peter. You see a row of twelve guys, and all of them are
holding books, and most of them have beards -- how on earth do you tell one
from the other? Art historians can, but I know that I certainly
can't. I learned in the course of this, and in attempts to identify
Biblical scenes in tapestries that Peninah is far better at reading artwork
than I am. One art style that we both could recognize was the glazed
Andalusian pottery: the Muslim influence is very obvious in medieval
Spanish Christian art. The Cloisters were full, if not crowded, mostly by
Europeans, if the languages that I overheard were any indication of
nationality. I guess that Europeans visit the great City of New York at
about this time of year, and find that the most cultured part of town is
imported from home. That's just my guess.
Despite some subway (I'm not allowed
to call it "The Metro") issues that arose involving broken ticket
machines, we made it to the strip of Museums on the East Side. Although
we had already paid admission to the cloisters, which got us in to the
Metropolitan Museum for free, we still needed to wait in what was a very, very
long line of tourists, just to enter. Luckily, the line went very
quickly, and it turned out that the amount of time it takes to wait in line to
visit the Metropolitan Museum is almost exactly the amount of time that it
takes to eat a sandwich, luckily for us. Checking our bags would have
been nuts, so we headed straight towards the galleries of European paintings,
at my request. We saw some Georges
de la Tour, some Goya, and some Caravaggesque paintings, before we
hit all of the Dutch landscapes. While Peninah sat for a moment to look
at a Dutch countryside, I darted off to look at a Vermeer painting that I hadnoticed, that I didn't recognize, "A Maid Asleep," circa 1670-1674. I was
suddenly surrounded by a Japanese tour group, all clustered around the Vermeer
painting, and I eventually extricated myself to find Peninah, passing some
Rembrandt self-portraits on the way. We
came out to the balcony to find the display of musical instruments that Peninah
wanted to see, including some horns with unpronounceable names and indescribably
contorted shapes. She has the pictures
on her phone, if you're ever interested.
Across the courtyard was a fantastic display of 19th-century American
glasswork and ceramics. It was mostly
functional tableware: bottles, flasks, vases, cruets, that kind of thing. The difference between antebellum and postwar work was obvious: art became significantly more decorative and skillfully-wrought after 1865. Peninah was particularly impressed by a
lemonade glass, I believe from the 1870s or 1880s, and neither of us could exactly
tell what a "celery vase" was, although we saw several. There were a lot of ugly, ostentatious
pieces, many of them from Tiffany's. My
new word of the day was "opalescent."
We found ourselves in the American
wing. We ended up visiting some cramped
period rooms (where we learned what differentiates a chocolate pot from a
teapot), some of them courtesy of the Van Renselear family, and seeing a
special exhibit on women's sports clothing from the interwar period, which I
wish my Mother had been present in order to see. We also discovered the concept of "open
storage:" the Metropolitan allows museumgoers to visit its storerooms of
furniture and paintings not on display.
Much of it is fairly nondescript, and I can easily understand why it
isn't out. In one row of otherwise plain
furniture, were a very remarkable table and desk, which turned out to have been
designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.
We descended to the galleries of
American paintings. We saw the famous
"Washington Crossing the Delaware," an awful lot of official
portraits (including much more George Washington), pieces by John Singleton
Copley, the Peale family, and Benjamin West.
Those guys. There was a room full
of art that was so ugly that Peninah couldn't bear to stand in it, and, to be
honest, I agreed with her. We had only
about thirty minutes left before the museum closed, so we ran off to the
opposite wing of the museum to find the Muslim art, from the Abbasid, Spanish
Umayyad, and Seljuk periods, in Arab and Persian lands (we never got into the
Turkish or later South Asian rooms). Archaeologists from the Metropolitan had helped to excavate an Iranian site from the 12th century, find all sorts of beautiful art objects and jewelry in their digging. It made me think: some of these things were surely lost, others left behind. Why did nobody ever try to recover them? Surely, if one was fleeing, or going into exile, the bulky bowls that we found whole and undamaged would have been too cumbersome. But why weren't they looted, or stolen, or recovered? One of the most interesting pieces we found was world's earliest nearly-complete chess set (it's missing a pawn), from 12th-century Nishapur, Iran. I wondered how the archaeologists could be certain that the knights, rooks, and bishops were correctly identified (pawns are easy, and the two central pieces, now the King and Queen, but at other times the King and Vizier, closely resemble each other).
It was dark by the time we made it back to Teaneck, but we had had a wonderful (if tiring) day of museums, with no mishaps. Good going, Peninah!
~JD